Post by kwthom on Jan 17, 2015 23:42:04 GMT
Waldo has posted this a few times, here's one example:
Waldo's 5 pin to 3.5mm adapter
![](http://www.rattlebars.com/chetswing/headset01.jpg)
I saw one of those factory, off-the-shelf adapters for $60 for the first time not long ago. Recalling this image, and having some time to kill this afternoon...
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hNlodxYlmhU/VLrttQkXO7I/AAAAAAAAKmg/9W7JheRMvYw/s800/IMG_20150117_15311.jpg)
Shown with 3.5mm cable to earpieces attached...
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-clQTrvtvD3k/VLrttZLcFZI/AAAAAAAAKmc/3fHR7L7uGnU/s800/IMG_20150117_15312.jpg)
Shown without 3.5mm cable attached...
Three tricks that you need to be cautious about if you choose to do this, that I found out:
(1) If you have other devices in line (Hollsco GPS Input, Mic-Mutes, etc.), there's a LOT of connections, really, really close in that (small) abyss under that left pocket. Constantly check to make sure all channels are working - and that your cabling doesn't inadvertently disconnect as you reattach everything (DAMHIK!)
(2) The 'piggyback' method of splicing into the connector that Waldo shows with his image. I think he describes it a bit better on his web pages, but essentially, you're jamming another contact on the back-side of the contact, where it's crimped. You need to make sure that it's not going to come loose; I've actually tied each of my piggy-backed wires, with soldered contacts (I used a couple of leads from electronic components I had here...) to the adjacent wire. I didn't get a picture, but it's a simple clove hitch, using a lightly waxed cord - or even dental floss that I tied each added wire to the original wire about 1/8" - 1/4" away from the contact. The whole works was shoved cautiously back into the boot for protection.
Yes, to do this properly, one would buy a set of contacts; and re-crimp both wires needed onto one contact, and replace in the connector shell...just copying his technique.
(3) Ideally, the 3.5mm extension cable you'll buy to sacrifice for this will have a bit of thickness; mine ended up with three 26 ga wires, which worked well. This was small enough to fit in the cut-out area without having to modify the shroud or the box.
If, and when the 3.5mm jack goes bad, no problem, replace the entire cable assembly with another.
Total time - about two hours, with the proper tools and supplies available...total cost - $7 for a 8' long extension cord that's used for 3.5mm stereo connections. Only a 3'/1m cable is needed, my local Radio Shack didn't have any that short.
Waldo's 5 pin to 3.5mm adapter
![](http://www.rattlebars.com/chetswing/headset01.jpg)
I saw one of those factory, off-the-shelf adapters for $60 for the first time not long ago. Recalling this image, and having some time to kill this afternoon...
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hNlodxYlmhU/VLrttQkXO7I/AAAAAAAAKmg/9W7JheRMvYw/s800/IMG_20150117_15311.jpg)
Shown with 3.5mm cable to earpieces attached...
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-clQTrvtvD3k/VLrttZLcFZI/AAAAAAAAKmc/3fHR7L7uGnU/s800/IMG_20150117_15312.jpg)
Shown without 3.5mm cable attached...
Three tricks that you need to be cautious about if you choose to do this, that I found out:
(1) If you have other devices in line (Hollsco GPS Input, Mic-Mutes, etc.), there's a LOT of connections, really, really close in that (small) abyss under that left pocket. Constantly check to make sure all channels are working - and that your cabling doesn't inadvertently disconnect as you reattach everything (DAMHIK!)
(2) The 'piggyback' method of splicing into the connector that Waldo shows with his image. I think he describes it a bit better on his web pages, but essentially, you're jamming another contact on the back-side of the contact, where it's crimped. You need to make sure that it's not going to come loose; I've actually tied each of my piggy-backed wires, with soldered contacts (I used a couple of leads from electronic components I had here...) to the adjacent wire. I didn't get a picture, but it's a simple clove hitch, using a lightly waxed cord - or even dental floss that I tied each added wire to the original wire about 1/8" - 1/4" away from the contact. The whole works was shoved cautiously back into the boot for protection.
Yes, to do this properly, one would buy a set of contacts; and re-crimp both wires needed onto one contact, and replace in the connector shell...just copying his technique.
(3) Ideally, the 3.5mm extension cable you'll buy to sacrifice for this will have a bit of thickness; mine ended up with three 26 ga wires, which worked well. This was small enough to fit in the cut-out area without having to modify the shroud or the box.
If, and when the 3.5mm jack goes bad, no problem, replace the entire cable assembly with another.
Total time - about two hours, with the proper tools and supplies available...total cost - $7 for a 8' long extension cord that's used for 3.5mm stereo connections. Only a 3'/1m cable is needed, my local Radio Shack didn't have any that short.